Nysa (Sultanhisar)

NYSA (Sultanhisar), ancient Caria / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 37º54’05.44’’N // 28º08’49.30’’E

TIPOLOGY: Bouleuterion / Greek odeon. Urban.

DATE: I B.C.

TRANSFORMATIONS: Rebuilt in half II A.D.

CAPACITY: 650 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing south. 12 rows of seats in 4 cunei.

ORCHESTRA: 7,2 m. diameter.

STAGE BUILDING: Proscaenium was 0,8 m. high. pulpitum 24,7x3,1 m. Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Lucius Verus and two Faustinas from scaenae frons.

LOCATION: In north west corner of agora.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Izenour, George. Roofed Theaters of Classical Antiquity. Yale University Press, 1992.// Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006.// Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995.//  Bean, George; “Turkey beyond the Maeander”. London, Ernst Benn, 1971.

 

OUT OF PRINT: Two times in different years I was in ancient Nysa, two times I meet the rain. A slow rain that showed me the ancient theatre, the stadium and the bouleuterion. I sat in the steps of it, hearing the rain monologue, a slow monologue that  comfort.

Balbura (Katara)

BALBURA (Katara), ancient Lycia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDENATES: 36º57’14.59’’N // 29º34’56.73’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Urban.

DATE: Mid – II B.C.

TRANSFORMATIONS:

CAPACITY: 1.800 spectators.

CAVEA: facing south. 36 m. diameter, exceeeds semicircle. Maenianum: 16 rows of seat are visible on 3 cunei.

ORCHESTRA: 11 m. diameter.

STAGE BUILDING: It´s the best preserved a complete wall built on slope of polygonal rusticated masonry.

LOCATION: Balbura has two theatres, these is called “upper theatre” and it´s located on south slope of north hill, 6 klm. south-east from Altinyayla, 25 klm. south from Gölishar

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010.// Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006. // Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995 // Bean, George; “Lycian Turkey”. London, Ernst Benn, 1978. // Freely, John; “The Western Mediterranean coast of Turkey”. Istanbul, Matbaacilik ve Yayincilik A.S., 1997.

 

 

OUT OF PRINT: These is one of these theatres that you spent time to find it. In my first travel to Lycia, I was not able to find it, I only had very poor references in Bean´s book, it was a day in which I lived with the snow on road and to take references was very difficult, I did not have a gps either. Anyway I found it in my second travel, it was difficult but too much exciting... the bad new was that I did not have references to look for the second one theatre, I tried to recognize the land was it was not possible... maybe, I hope, there will be a third time, another travel to Lycia, and I will try it again, of course.

Side (Side)

SIDE (Side), ancient Pamphylia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDENATES: 36º46’04.92’’N // 31º23’26.32E

TIPOLOGY: Roman theatre. Urban.

DATE: Last II A.D.

TRANSFORMATIONS: It may probably have been an earlier Greek theatre. In III A.D. it was transformed in amphitheatre.

CAPACITY: 10.000spectators.

CAVEA: Facing north-east. 120 m. diameter. Bilt against slope, although summa cavea have 2 levels of substructures. 23 radial barrel-vaults appear on façade. Maenianum: Ima cavea with 30 rows of seats in 11 cunei. Summa cavea with 25 rows in 24 cunei.

ORCHESTRA: 29 m. diameter, surrounded by podium.

STAGE BUILDING: Pulpitum have trapezoidal shape. Scaenae frons was rectilinear, with 5 doors; 2 storey for columnatio. Postscaenium with 9 rooms. Podium of scaenae frons with relief sculptures.

LOCATION: Side is 65 klm. east from Antalya.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010 // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006.// Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995. // Bean, George; “Turkey´s southern shore”. London, Ernest Benn Limited, 1968.

 

 

OUT OF PRINT: In Side ancient theatre I played jigsaw... you only have to look at the scattered relief sculpture remains of the podium and let the mind to fly.

Metropolis (Yeniköy, Torbali)

METROPOLIS (Yeniköy, Torbali), ancient Ionia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDENATES: 38º07’26.28’’N // 27º19’28.91’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Urban.

DATE: III B.C. ¿?

TRANSFORMATIONS: Scene building restored in Roman times.

CAPACITY: 2,600 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing south.east. Maenianum: Ima cavea with 11 rows of seats in 7 cunei; Summa cavea does not reach the semicircle, with 8 cunei some of them with 12 rows, other with 8 rows.

ORCHESTRA: 12,2 m. diameter. Paved in color marble. There are 4 thrones for dignitaries with griffin´s feet and lion´s claws and 2 cylindrical altars.

STAGE BUILDING: The stage is 5,3 m. wide. Proscaenium: there are 8 colums preserved in site

LOCATION: Theatre is south-east of the acropolis hill, north-west of Yeniköy, 4 klm. south-west from Torbali, 30 klm. north from Ephesos.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006.

 

OUT OF PRINT: Metroplis was a great surprise... in my first travel to Turkey, although it had been yet excavated, i did not know its existence; second time I were in Ionia land, I found not only a great theatre, ima cavea very well preserved, with marvellous stone thrones for dignitaries, like in Priene or Amphiaron, and altars too; it was a great award, the day before returning to the great Epheso. But Metroplis had other great surprise for me, after visiting the ancient Greek theatre I took a round for the city remains and, oh my god!, I meet with something i did not have notice about... the remains of an ancient odeon or bouleuterion that had being recently excavated... that evening I won the lottery.

Letoon (Kumluova)

LETOON (Kumluova), ancient Lycia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 36º19’55.09’’N // 29º17’23.87’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Not urban.
DATE: First half of II B.C.
TRANSFORMATIONS: Rebuilt in II A.D.
CAPACITY: 5.700 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing north-west. Built in hollow. 79 m. diameter, cavea exceeds semicircle. Maenianum: Ima cavea with 16 rows of seats in 12 cunei, top rows with continuous back; Summa cavea with 17 rows in 20 cunei. Frieze with bearbead heads of Dionysos in east doorway arched.

ORCHESTRA: It was surrounded by podium. Not excavated.

STAGE BUILDING: Proscaenium with Doric half-columns; Scaenae frons had two-storey columnatio.

LOCATION: Theatre is part of Xanthian sanctuary of Letoon, the sanctuary is in modern Kumluova, 4 klm. south-west from Kinik, 70 klm. south from Fethiye.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Bean, George; “Lycian Turkey”. London, Ernst Benn, 1978. // Freely, John; “The Western Mediterranean coast of Turkey”. Istanbul, Matbaacilik ve Yayincilik A.S., 1997. // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006. // Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995.

OUT OF PRINT:
“If it had happened short or long time ago
I do not know
if we did this trip
or just seems to me
I do not know”
                        -Nâzim Hikmet-

Kaunos (Dalyan)

KAUNOS (Dalyan), ancient Caria / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 36º49’31.41’’N // 28º37’23.57’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Urban.

DATE: II B.C.

TRANSFORMATIONS: scene building I B.C., rebuilt in roman times in II A.D.

CAPACITY: 5.500 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing south-west. Built against hillside. 73 m. diameter, exceeds semicircle; Maenianum: Ima cavea with 18 rows of seats in 9 cunei; Summa cavea with 15 rows in 9 cunei. Top rows in ima and summa with continuous stone-back rest.

ORCHESTRA: 21 m. diameter.

STAGE BUILDING: Hellenistic proscaenium remains with 16 Doric columns.  

LOCATION: Near foot of acropolis hill. 2 klm. south-west from modern Dalyan, crossing the river.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Bean, George; “Turkey beyond the Maeander”. London, Ernst Benn, 1971.// Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006.// Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995.

 

 

OUT OF PRINT: After tasting the silence of ancient Kaunos an old woman, dressed severly in black, crossed me to the other side, in her small boat, to Dalyan. She was about 80 years old, paddled slowly, slowly, slowly as you have to savor Kaunos. From the river I could hear the call to pray, and something in my chest was recorded in fire for ever... I was the protagonist of a film by Angelopoulos.

Sillyon (Asar Köy)

SILLYON (Asar Köy), ancient Pamphylia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 36º59’24.98’’N // 30º59’14.24’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Urban.

DATE:

TRANSFORMATIONS:

CAPACITY: 2.000 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing sout-east. 60 m. diameter. Only 9 top rows of seats survives. The theatre was on the edge of the hill and collapsed in 1969, falling down part of the cavea, the stage building and the nearby odeon. George Bean saw 15 rows of seats in 60´s.

ORCHESTRA: Nothing survives.

STAGE BUILDING: Nothing survives.

LOCATION: Ancient Sillyon is on a hill, 20klm north-east from ancient Perge; 34 klm. north-east from Antalya. The theatre remains are on south rim of acropolis hill.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010.// Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006.// Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995. // Bean, George; “Turkey´s southern shore”. London, Ernest Benn Limited, 1968.// Freely, John; “The eastern mediterranean coast of Turkey”. Istanbul, Matbaacilik ve Yayincilik A.S., 1998.

 

 

OUT OF PRINT: The ancient Sillyon theatre was the first one I visited in my first travel to Turkey; I can not explain the exciting feelings I had, could not have a better start. The place of ancient Sillyon is absolutely fascinating, magical and enigmatic. A real place where you can talk with the silence, a silence that make you drunk. From the seats, surrounded by sheep I remembered that verses: “Extend the look / fly it in the infinite horizon / like a bird or the rain that settle”. Pamphylia under my fe

Kibyra (Gölhisar)

KIBYRA (Gölhisar), ancient Lycia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 37º09’38.54’’N // 29º29’20.77’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Urban.
DATE: End I B.C.
TRANSFORMATIONS: Roman stage building, first half III A.D.
CAPACITY: 7.400 spectators.
CAVEA: Facing south-east. 81 m. diameter. Cavea exceeds semicircle. Maenuanum: ima cavea with 15 rows of seats in 5 cunei. Media cavea with 12 rows of seats in 10 cunei; Summa cavea with 7 cunei  and 10 steps, but did not extend to the entire width of the cavea.
ORCHESTRA: 35 m. diameter.
STAGE BUILDING: Was removed in roman times, only part of the scaenae frons survives with 5 doors.
LOCATION: On a hill, 2 klm. north-west from modern Gölhisar, about 100 klm north-east from Fethiye.
MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006.// Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995.// Bean, George; “Lycian Turkey”. London, Ernst Benn, 1978.// Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010.

OUT OF PRINT: Two times I were in Kibyra, two times -one was Kurban Bayrani day, I felt the same. After visiting more than 450 ancient theatres Kybira´s was the one that made me felt scared, I do not know why. I have slept in some ancient theatres, but I think I will never do it in Kybira´s one. Anyway is one of my favourite places, it is impressive, being on the top of the cavea you can feel vertigo, due to the slope of the rows, like in Selge´s ancient theatre.

Harpasa (Esenköy)

HARPASA (Esenköy), ancient Caria / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: About 37º46’12.56’’N / 28º21’03.79’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Not urban.

DATE: End of II B.C.

TRANSFORMATIONS:

CAPACITY: 2.500 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing north-west.  58 m. diameter. Built against slope. It had about 30 rows of seats but only 8 are visible divided in 6 cunei. Upper rows of seat were rectilinear.

ORCHESTRA:

STAGE BUILDING:

LOCATION: It´s little below ancient Acropolis, in the hill close to modern Esenköy, 12 klm. south from modern Nazilli.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006.

OUT OF PRINT: The day I visited Harpasa´s ancient theatre was a great exciting day for me. I proposed that day to visit three ancient theatres of which I never had been any picture and did not exactly where they were: Harpasa, Orthosa and Bargasa, so it was going to be a rainy day full of unknowns and adventure.  I started very early the day looking for Harpasa´s one, it was not difficult to find it, only an extended walk by the hill in Esenköy. After I drove to Donduran for find Orthosa´s Greek theater, that was quite difficult to find and I will tell when I do Orthosa´s review, I only will tell the wonderful experience drinking tea in Donduran’s cantina before being hours looking in the field for the little theatre remains; In the evening I drove to Haydere for finding Bargasa´s ancient theatre, I found the ancient city, spending hours, but I did not find the theatre although, like I could see in Yasar Yilmaz book, “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”, I were walking on it, in the deep wood... anyway, another of the million reasons for returning to Turkey.

Notion (Ahmetbeyli)

NOTION (Ahmetbeyli), ancient Ionia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDIANATES: 37º59’37.00’’N // 27º12’03.27’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Urban.

DATE: II B.C.

TRANSFORMATIONS: Cavea was restored in imperial roman times.

CAPACITY: 4.000 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing west. 64 m. diameter. Rest on natural slop, partially carved on rock . Bigger than semicircle. Maenianum. There are 27 visible row of seats, ima cavea with 9 cunei and summa with 11.

ORCHESTRA:

STAGE BUILDING: Rectangular shape, 25 x 6,5 m. Facade with five thymorata.

LOCATION: 4 klm. south from modern Ahmetbeyli, 2 klm. south from ancient Claros, 18 klm west from ancient Epheso.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006. // Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995. //  Bean, George; “Aegan Turkey”. London, Ernst Benn, 1972.

OUT OF PRINT: First time I visited Notion´s ancient theatre I felt like a ballet dancer, I had to cross a muddy field strewn. I tried to be light, by a pathetic jumps that were too far from the weightless... I suppose that, Notion ancient people, in their theatre, saw, more than once, graceful and beautiful dances... that day I was crowned in the silence theatre, but not with laurels for poets, I had a different present... muddy boots, heavy as hell.

Antiphellos (Kas)

ANTIPHELLOS (Kas), ancient Lycia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 36º11’59.86’’N // 29º38’05.87’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Urban.
DATE: II B.C.
TRANSFORMATIONS: Enlarged in second half of III A.D.
CAPACITY: 2.800 spectators.
CAVEA: Facing south. 50 m. diameter. Built against hillside. Exceeds semicircle. Maenianum: 25 rows of seats divided in 3 cunei. There are holes for vela.
ORCHESTRA: 10,6 m. diameter.
STAGE BUILDING: There is not remains.
LOCATION: Ancient theatre is west of modern Kas, in wonderful Lykia.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006. // Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995. // Bean, George; “Lycian Turkey”. London, Ernst Benn, 1978.

OUT OF PRINT: When the day falls people from Kas go to the ancient theatre to see the last ray of sun. They wait there, sitting in the cavea, talking slowly, eating sunflower seeds, stopping the time... that´s Antiphellos theatre, a place for being with a friend, talking, providing quietly with a drink, celebrating the meeting, stopping time, leaving the words flow, an ideal place to feel the night to come.

Cyaneae (Yavu Köy)

CYANEAE (Yavu Köy), ancient Lycia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 36º14’45.27’’N // 29º48’54.07’’E

TIPOLOGY: Greek theatre. Not urban.

DATE: Last III or first II B.C.

TRANSFORMATIONS:

CAPACITY: 2.500 spectators.

CAVEA: Facing south.  55 m. diameter. Built against  low hill.  Exceeds semicircle.  Maeniana: Ima cavea with 10 rows of seats in 5 cunei; summa cavea with 14 rows of seats in 5 cunei.

ORCHESTRA: 14,5 m. diameter.

STAGE BUILDING: It was carved on rock and with rectangular shape. It has not been excavated, only some proscaenium remains are visible.

LOCATION: On a lower summit west of the ancient city. The theatre is on a hill up of modern little village of Yavu Köy, 60 klm. west from Kumluca.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006. // Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995. // Bean, George; “Lycian Turkey”. London, Ernst Benn, 1978.

OUT OF PRINT: First time I visited Cyaneae it was a storm winter day, it was all the day raining and cloudy, with a dense fog that covered the day with a spooky atmosphere. I knew the ancient theatre was up of the hill, but did not know the exact place. I started to climb awkwardly, I has lost the way and shrubs and bushes were my friends in my walk, soon my raincoat torned, I was walking around the fog about two hours, the fog was dense and I was soggy, that day I knew than even a good goretex boats finished soaking. When I was thinking about how to return because I was absolutely lost, the fog opened a little light window and an impressive greek theatre appeared... one of my favourites. I came back to Cyaneae in 2008, it was a clear day and it was easy to find the theatre... Cyaneae is like to take a walk by the moon, a place without words.

Sagalassos (Aglasun)

SAGALASSOS (Aglasun), ancient Psidia / Asia Minor, modern Turkey.

COORDINATES: 37º40’41.69’’N // 30º31’18.37’’E

TIPOLOGY: Roman theatre, Asia Minor style. Urban.
DATE: Las quarter II A.D.
TRANSFORMATIONS: The building was used for amphitheatre games too.
CAPACITY: 7.000 spectators.
CAVEA: Facing south-west. 98,5 m. diameter. Exceeds semicircle. East side ima cavea rests on natural hill but west sides built over substructures. Maenianum: Ima cavea 25 rows of seats in 8 cunei. Summa cavea with 18 rows of seat in 17 cunei.
ORCHESTRA: 25,5 m. diameter.
STAGE BUILDING: The scaenae frons was rectilinear and had five doors; the columnatio had two storey.
LOCATION: In the uptown area. Ancient Sagalassos is 1500 m. high, 5 klm. north from Aglasun, 50 klm. south from Isparta.

MY BEDSIDE TABLE: Yilmaz, Yasar; “Anadolu Antik Tiyatrolari”. Istanbul, Yem Yanin, 2010. // Sear, Frank; “Roman theatres: an architectural study”. Oxford University Press, 2006. // Ciancio Rossetto, Paola; Giuseppina Pisani Sartorio (eds); “Teatri Greci e Romani: alle origini del linguaggio rappresentato”. Rome: SEAT, 1995. // Freely, John; “The eastern mediterranean coast of Turkey”. Istanbul, Matbaacilik ve Yayincilik A.S., 1998.

OUT OF PRINT: In 2005, when I went from Gölhisar to Isparta for visiting Sagalassos I had to come back 50 klm. before arriving the place, it had snow and I did not have chains for the car. It was frustrating because Sagalassos was one of the places I wish, more than another one, to visit. It was Kurban Bayrami day, a lot families were travelling for visiting their families and there were slaughtered lambs in the villages... I would like to have had these day a real Turkish family for being part of these religious celebration. In 2009, when I returned to my lovely Turkey, finally, I could visit Sagalassos and its theatre and odeon. It is one of the most especial ancient theatres for me, for their intact remains; for the place, where the stones in symbiosis with the mountain; for the silence it has, a cold silence, the silence of the wind and the mountains... Sagalassos, my winter ancient theatre... a place that breaks your breathe